March 1, 2010
If looking at a world map, Tahiti and her islands – officially called French Polynesia – are a long way away from the usual superyacht destinations like the Mediterranean and the Carribean. And yet, these islands are not only beautiful and pristine but also offer safety, excellent provisioning and good navigation conditions."Tahiti and her islands are, in my opinion, one of the best places in the world to take a megayacht," said Capt. Chris Gartner of S/Y Maltese Falcon.It is commonly believed that the first migrants arrived from Southeast Asia about 2,000 years ago, travelling on large sailing outrigger canoes guided by celestial navigation and their amazing knowledge of the ocean. One hundred and eighteen islands grouped in five different archipelagos are spread over a territory as large as Western Europe. The ocean covers 99 percent of the country and it is a fabulous navigation playground for any yacht captain. Apart from the Marquesas, which are the first group of islands to be reached while arriving from the east, most of them feature a lagoon with one or several, natural passes allowing boats to get in and out. Water level is usually shallow in the lagoons but any yacht can cruise there. Although the only marina for megayachts is in Tahiti, finding a sheltered safe anchorage spot with no other boat around is easy. The channels are marked in the most developed islands and local navigation charts are reliable and up to date for the other islands.The Society Islands and the Tuamotu atolls are the most commonly visited archipelagos by superyachts. The Society Islands comprise nine inhabited islands including Tahiti, Moorea and Bora Bora. They feature magnificent sharp green high mountains and crystal clear lagoons. All of them offer nice large bays, remnants of ancient volcanoes, and good moorings. When entering the lagoon of Moorea, most anyone immediately feels what Captain Cook, on board the Endeavour, must have felt when he first arrived there in 1768 after a sixth month, seemingly endless journey.
Unknown for centuries, although the Europeans sailed several times through the archipelago without spotting land, the “Tuamotu” is scattered with 78 atolls. Only about half of them are populated. A flat ring of coral reef and a large lagoon with beautiful coral and fish welcome yachts. Older than the Society islands, the main land has disappeared to be replaced by huge warm lagoons. It is the ideal place for nature lovers and hiding away. The most populated atolls do not exceed 2,000 inhabitants, usually only one small village located near the main pass.During a trip with guests onboard, a typical two week itinerary will start in Tahiti or Moorea with a stop in the various islands until Bora Bora; then a one day crossing (240nm) to reach Fakarava in the Tuamotu. The best option is to night cross from one atoll to the other with Rangiroa as the final stop where guests can depart. The winds blow from the east, so navigation conditions will be more pleasant for the guests if starting in Fakarava.Although the presence of yachts is still seasonal (from April to October) in relation to the summer break in the northern hemisphere, it is warm and sunny year round with a higher humidity rate between November and March and trade winds blowing more frequently in July and August. The average risk of hurricane is one every ten years according to statistics. The Marquesas are geographically out of the hurricane route and could shelter boats in case of a big storm. As a French territory, there are no safety issues and the local people are very friendly, even in the remote islands. Some islands are hit by ciguatera and it is always recommended to ask locally if fishing and eating some species is appropriate.Immigration procedures for crew were simplified in 2008. Crew members working on a yacht arriving in Tahiti are allowed to stay in a French territory according to the agreements in place between their country of nationality and France. Once the initial visa expires, it will be automatically renewed upon presentation of the seaman’s book, providing that they are still working on the same yacht.Fuel supply and main provisioning are in Tahiti. Chefs can shop at the huge Carrefour hypermarket, close to Marina Taina in Tahiti, which offers a wide variety of products, both local and imported. Basically, any food or beverage request can be fulfilled either there or through local retailers. For all the above, it is recommended to use the services of one of the local experienced agents. They will assist any captain with immigration and customs issues, charter licence information and will offer suggestions for things to do in the islands and who to get in touch with.The range of activities for both guests and crew is diverse. The destination is a great success with visiting crew. The local government has put effort into protecting the marine environment and developing sustainability programs. Fakarava and five surrounding atolls became a UNESCO biosphere reserve in 2007. In 2006, French Polynesia was the first country worldwide to adopt a law protecting the 15 shark species living in its waters. The country also became a sanctuary for marine mammals in 2002. Between July and November each year, it is the perfect spot to watch humpback whales arriving from the Antarctic to mate or give birth. The best areas to see them are Moorea and Tahiti’s peninsula, usually in the ocean not far from the reef. Although strict rules apply allowable proximity to whales, it is allowed to snorkel with them should the animals be at a rest.Dolphins are commonly encountered year round. A highlight is diving Tiputa pass in Rangiroa and to be greeted by a pod of bottle nose dolphins. Several are so used to seeing divers that they will approach a person. It is a unique experience, as these animals are wild and not fed by humans.
Everyone who goes to Tahiti should dive or snorkel. Coral reef quality and the number of fish and sharks, especially in the Tuamotu, is rarely seen anywhere else in the world. Visibility is excellent and most dives are shallow (not more than 80 feet typically). The Tuamotu offers excellent drift diving in the various passes of the atolls. Drift speed can reach up to eight knots and care should be taken when tides are changing in the lagoon. It is highly recommended to use the services of a local experienced guide around this archipelago. Diving there is a bit technical but fun for every type of diver if carried out with a good guide.Tahiti and her islands are also a great place for surfers and kite surfers. The latter can enjoy their hobby in any lagoon. The “must” for surfers is the famous Teahupoo wave close to Tahiti’s peninsula. It is a very tricky wave as it breaks right on the reef, attracting hundred of surfers each year, especially during the annual Billabong Pro tournament in April and May. A couple of regattas are also organized in May and June each year between Tahiti and Moorea and around Raiatea. Although it is dedicated to smaller sailboats, more and more larger sail yachts enjoy either participating or following the race.Tahiti would not be an ideal destination for a superyacht if it did not have shipyard facilities. In Papeete, the capital city and main port of call, there is a slipway and a dry dock. A private company has recently acquired a 300-ton travel lift and works in coordination with the port authority. Previously yachts had to cruise to New Zealand or Australia for their yard work, the only other areas in the South Pacific with facilities. Charter yachts such as the Maltese Falcon and M/Y Askari (which has been based in Tahiti for four years) have used the facilities and the captains said they were very satisfied with the experience. The team of workers has been trained by the French Navy and is highly skilled.The port is currently interested in investing in a larger dry dock. Currently the dry dock can take vessels up to 3,800 tons, for yachts measuring up to 140m in length with 17m beams. By 2012, the new dry dock is expected be able to accommodate yachts of 14,000 tons and and up to 150m by 25m.The port is currently installing a $2 million video surveillance system on the docks where up to 25 yachts of 35m or eight yachts of 80m can dock. Updates to security in 2009 include gates with restricted access, either using a magnetic card or through a security guard. The management team of the port authority is dynamic and willing to adapt the existing structures to yachts’ needs. Marina Taina is a 10 minute drive from the international airport and has a capacity for up to 20 yachts between 25 and 60 meters. There is an ongoing project to turn it into a “green” marina over the next three years.Information on the Port Authority of Papeete can be found by visiting www.portdepapeete.pf or by emailing to capitainerie@portppt.pf. and details on Marina Taina can be obtained by emailing to marinataina@mail.pf and visiting www.tahiti-ocean.com.Yacht agents include Laurent Cornu at Tahiti Ocean who can be reached at email yacht@mail.pf and Pascal Bredin at Tahiti Yacht Services at email yacht@tys.pf. Like its neighbors in New Zealand, Australia and Fiji, local professionals are combining efforts to increase the area's popularity as a megayacht destination. By promoting awareness of the current and future yachting facilities and the idyllic natural beauty, yachts will realize resources available in this Pacific Ocean treasure. Christelle Holler works with Tahiti Private Expeditions and is a consultant for the superyacht industry. She can be reached at christelle.tyc@gmail.com, by phone at +1 689 766 272 or at www.tahiti-private-expeditions.com. Comments on this article are welcome at editorial@the-triton.com.